"To be completely honest, I've always been quite a greedy person," says Felicity Cloake simply.

Starting out behind the scenes in publishing, before realising she wanted to write herself, Cloake is best known for her Guardian column, 'How to make the perfect...'.

Each week, she picks a dish, tries out different recipes for it, steals the best bits and then pronounces the definitive 'perfect' recipe at the end.

Though she already has another three books under her belt, she says working on her latest, The A-Z Of Eating, which draws on her own ideas and kitchen experiments, felt like she was "writing my own stuff for the first time".

Featuring 26 chapters divided into her favourite ingredients (rhubarb and kale rank highly), the London-based foodie explains that she set out to "explore the possibilities of the ingredients beyond the obvious", and "shake people out of their comfort zone".

As a result, recipes for home-made Angel Delight and mini-cheese and Marmite donuts rub shoulders with Guinness jelly ("It's so satisfying bringing it to the table and having it all wobbly"), and even a Japanese noodle version of carbonara.

"I really love Angel Delight, I don't eat it really any more but I've got this nostalgic fondness for it, and I thought it must be possible to recreate it without all of the weird preservatives and emulsifiers you find on the back of the packet," says Cloake, who went and invented her own version of the classic butterscotch flavour. "I think it might even be - I hesitate to say it, because it's a bold claim - but more delicious than the original!"

Those mini-cheese and marmite bites were born from time spent wondering why there are so few savoury doughnuts to be found.

"I'm a bit of a purist when it comes to doughnuts, and I'm not a big fan of these really overstuffed, very sweet ones that are quite fashionable at the moment. I like them to be quite savoury and then you get that nice pop of jam," muses Cloake. "I started thinking about molten cheese, then I couldn't resist trying it out and was so happy when they worked.

"I don't often get the chance to cook the stuff I might be inclined to cook, because I'm always testing recipes for the column," she adds.

Is there anything she's featured in the past, that she did to death and now can't eat?

"Trifle I would never get sick of, but there are some things," Cloake begins.

"I did 'perfect' hummus and I haven't been able to make it since," she admits with a grimace. "I loved hummus before, but when you really over-eat something, you just can't face it. There are some things - quite a lot actually - that I'm taking a break from."

Of course, there are also some ingredients she just can't abide regardless.

"My brother used to put tinned tuna in sandwiches when he was looking after me, and now, eww, the smell turns my stomach," she says with a laugh. "Truffles I really would love to like, because truffles are one of those things that's meant to be completely delicious and people go mad for them, and I can't see it.

"I was reading recently that with truffles, like coriander, there might be some sort of genetic reason why some people enjoy them and some can't stand them," she adds.

"Science isn't my strong point, but I do think it's quite important for people that are interested in food to at least try and understand the chemistry behind it, and why some things work and some things don't, because that makes you a better cook in the long run."

When it comes to inspiration, Cloake always reaches for Diana Henry's books ("I think she's brilliant, everything she's done"), Giorgio Locatelli's Made In Italy and "anything by Nigel Slater".

"He's the man who got me into cooking in the first place," she says, recalling the uninspiring recipe books her mum had in the Eighties. "Suddenly, Nigel Slater came along, and he wrote so wonderfully and made it sound fun, and the photography was beautiful.

"I was like, 'Ohh, this is a bit more interesting than I thought it was'."

Feeling adventurous? Here are three ingenious recipes from Cloake's new book...

:: PEACH AND MOZZARELLA SALAD WITH CRISPY LEMON ZEST AND BASIL

(Serves 2)

1 large unwaxed lemon

6tbsp olive oil

2-3 fairly ripe peaches or nectarines

1 ball of buffalo mozzarella

4 sprigs of basil

Peel the zest from the lemon in strips, keeping them as thin as possible to avoid the bitter white pith. Scrape any pith off the peel with a sharp knife, then cut the strips into long thin lengths. Put a plate lined with kitchen paper by the hob.

Heat the oil in a small frying pan and, when hot, fry the zest for about 30 seconds, until just beginning to crisp and colour. Use a slotted spoon to scoop on to the paper to drain, and allow the oil in the pan to cool.

Juice the lemon and whisk the cooled oil into two tablespoons of the juice. Season to taste.

Slice the peaches and divide between two small plates in a circle. Sprinkle with a little of the dressing, then tear the mozzarella over the top.

Spoon over a little more dressing, season, and sprinkle with the lemon zest strips and torn basil leaves to serve.

:: SHRIMP AND GRITS WITH BACON AND PARMESAN

(Serves 2)

500ml chicken stock

250ml milk

100g stoneground grits (you can find them online, alternatively use cornmeal or polenta)

1tbsp double cream

40g Parmesan or Grana Padano, grated

2 rashers of smoked streaky bacon, finely chopped

10 large raw prawns, peeled and deveined, but tails left on

A small bunch of chives

Salt and pepper

Combine the stock and milk in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer, then pour over the grits, whisking vigorously to combine.

Turn down the heat to low and simmer for about 20-30 minutes, until the grits are thick and creamy, stirring regularly to make sure they aren't sticking.

Once they're ready, take off the heat and stir in the cream and cheese, then season to taste. Keep warm while you cook the topping.

Heat a dry frying pan over a medium-high heat and fry the bacon until crisp and beginning to brown. Scoop out with a slotted spoon and add the prawns. Saute until pink on both sides, then scoop out and add to the bacon (if you leave them in the hot pan while you assemble the dish they will continue cooking).

Divide the grits between two shallow bowls. Top with the prawns, then scatter the bacon around them. Finally, snip over the chives to serve.

:: LAMB 'PORCHETTA' WITH SALSA VERDE

(Serves 6)

2tbsp black peppercorns

1/2-1tbsp red chilli flakes

3tbsp fennel seeds

1.5kg boned lamb breast (probably 2 or 3)

6 garlic cloves, crushed

4tbsp chopped thyme and rosemary

1/2tsp bicarbonate of soda

Salt

For the Salsa Verde:

1 large bunch of basil

1 large bunch of flat-leaf parsley

6 anchovies (rinsed if packed in salt)

2tbsp capers (rinsed if packed in salt)

1 garlic clove, crushed

Juice of 1/2 a lemon

1tsp Dijon mustard

Olive oil

Salt and pepper

Between 16 and 48 hours before you want to eat the lamb, depending on how long you have to marinate it, put the peppercorns, chilli flakes and fennel seeds into a hot dry frying pan and toast for a minute or so, or until aromatic. Allow to cool slightly, then crush in a pestle and mortar.

Lay the lamb breast or breasts out flat on a board, fat side down, and salt generously. Spread over the crushed garlic (unfortunately, fingers are the easiest thing to use - rub them with lemon juice afterwards to help neutralize the smell), followed by the crushed spices and chopped herbs. Roll up tightly from one of the short ends and tie with string in several places. Rub the skin with bicarbonate of soda and a little more salt, then refrigerate overnight, or for up to 48 hours.

Take the meat out of the fridge an hour or so before you want to cook it, to bring it up to room temperature. Heat the oven to 240C/gas 9 and roast the lamb for about 30 minutes, until golden, then turn down the heat to 170C/gas 3 and roast for a further two to two-and-a-half hours, or until the meat is very tender. Rest for at least 20 minutes in a warm place.

To make the Salsa Verde, whiz the herbs, anchovies, capers and garlic up in a food processor (or roughly chop and then pound in a pestle and mortar if you're feeling more energetic), then beat in the lemon juice and mustard, followed by enough olive oil to make a thick sauce - it doesn't need to be super smooth. Taste and season or add more lemon juice if necessary.

Cut the lamb into thick slices and serve with the Salsa Verde.

:: The A-Z Of Eating by Felicity Cloake is published in hardback by Fig Tree, priced £25. Available now

THREE OF THE BEST... Jam doughnuts

:: Glazed Raspberry, £1.85 each or from £10.95 for The Assorted Dozen, Krispy Kreme

Taking the original Krispy Kreme glaze and stuffing the bun with a sweet and gloopy raspberry jam, these are a great twist on a classic, even though there's no sugar to lick off your lips.

:: Jam Ball Doughnuts, 65p for pack of five, Sainsbury's

Sturdy, moreish and really quite bready, these are the most filling of the bunch, and they don't scrimp on sugary goodness. Try not to eat the whole bag yourself...

:: Jam Doughnut, 50p each of three for £1, Greggs

Super sugary but with dough that's nice and light to bite into, these buns are filled to bursting with jam that tastes practically home-made. Very satisfying with a cup of tea.